Oil changes are of the easiest and most effective ways to prolong the life of your bike, and should be performed every six months or 3,000 miles-- whichever comes first. Carbureted bikes are more susceptible to the ravages of storage since fuel can easily contaminate the engine oil, so be extra vigilant with non-fuel injected bikes.Before you start, make sure you have the following supplies ready: An allen wrench or screwdriver (for fairing removal, if necessary.) An oil filter wrench (for removing the oil filter.) The appropriate crush washer for your oil drain plug-- this can be purchased from a hardware store or motorcycle service shop. A pair of needle-nose pliers, in case the oil filler cap is hard to reach or tightly screwed on. An adjustable socket wrench. Clean rags. The proper amount of manufacturer-recommended engine oil. A new, manufacturer-approved oil filter. A funnel. If necessary, remove fairing or bodywork blocking access to the engineIf bodywork surrounds the engine that needs an oil change, you'll have to remove it. Don't worry- this is easier than it sounds.Bikes often come equipped with small toolkits under their seats; if you can't find yours, use the appropriate Phillips screwdriver and/or Allen wrench in order to unscrew the bolts holding your fairing to the frame.Be sure to keep all fasteners, brackets and bolts together in a safe place until it's time to put everything back together again.   Before draining the engine oil, you'll want to unscrew the oil filler cap (it's usually made of black plastic, with a raised twist tab.) Doing so will allow the oil to drain more quickly.If the cap is hard to reach or tightly screwed on, you might want to use needle-nose pliers. Place a pan or bucket under the engine and use a socket wrench to remove the drain plug, which is located on the underside of the oil pan.Be careful during the last few turns, as the oil-- which might be hot-- will start to spill out. IMPORTANT NOTE: Be sure to properly dispose of used oil at a qualified hazardous waste disposal facility. Dumping used oil is both illegal and harmful to the environment.   The crush washer is an aluminum or copper disc designed to deform under pressure, which helps seal the oil drain plug. This part must be replaced after each oil change, and is seen here being separated from the drain plug.   The tip of the drain plug is usually magnetic, in order to attract slivers of metal shed by the engine. While larger pieces are typically found during an engine's break-in period, don't be alarmed when smaller pieces routinely end up stuck onto the edge of the drain plug; just wipe them off with a clean rag.   While the oil continues to drain, unscrew the oil filter using a filter removal tool, which reaches around what might be a tightly screwed in filter.Once the filter is off, make sure the filter's O-ring (a band of rubber that fits on the tip to ensure a secure seal) came off with the filter.In order to remove larger particulates, unscrew and remove the plastic mesh filter from the side of the engine case.   In order to remove larger particulates, unscrew and remove the plastic mesh filter from the side of the engine case.First, wipe the mesh off with a clean rag so no particles remain. Then, if possible, blow smaller particles off with compressed air.   While the drain plug, mesh filter, and oil filter holes on the engine are exposed, wipe them all down with a clean rag to remove any accumulated sludge, in order to ensure a tight seal.   Every new oil filter comes with an O-ring; ensure it is seated snugly in the filter and spread a dab of motor oil around its top surface in order to ensure a tight seal.Then, using your hand, screw the new filter into the engine case. Be sure NOT to use a tool for this part; it's easy to over-tighten the filter and damage the O-ring when using a tool.   Once the old oil is completely drained, which should take at least several minutes, use a clean rag to wipe down the drain hole and the mesh filter hole. Screw the oil drain plug (with a new aluminum crush washer) and the plastic mesh filter back into the case.Use the owner's manual (or markings on the engine) to find out the engine's oil capacity, fill it up with that amount-- minus about one half quart-- by placing a funnel into the oil filler hole.Screw in the oil filler cap and start up the engine. Let the engine idle for about a minute, then shut it off.   After the engine has idled for about a minute, shut it off and wait another minute or so for the new oil to settle from the cylinder heads into the crankcase.Make sure the bike is perfectly level; if there is a rear stand attached to the bike, remove it so it rests flat on the ground. If the bike doesn't have a center stand, lift it off its kickstand so it sits up perfectly straight. Check the oil window on the side of the crankcase: if the oil is below the center line, top it off until it's perfectly centered. If it's already at the center, voila-- you've just successfully changed your oil!                                                                                                                                                                                               

I have done this on both my bikes and was very proud of myself, I looked it up on the internet on how to do the oil change and had me comp close at hand and the manual for me virago at the ready as well                                                                                                                                                                             

Another tip is don't take the filler cap off until the flow of oil out of the sump begins to slow down.

I've found in the past that if you take the cap off first, then when you remove the sump plug, the oil can come out really quickly and before you know it you've got oil everywhere lol.                                                                                                                                                                             

just a point,thought it might worth mentioning,if you use compressed air,always wear goggles,particles could fly into your eyes,and we dont ant that do we?excellent piece though,might try it myself now,ha ha.                                                                                                                                                                             

forgot to mention its always best to wear gloves,preferably the latex type or for you ladies marigolds,two reasons,first the oil if hot wont burn you,secondly keeps the hands clean so you can make the tea for im indoors?only joking,slides away under the door. 

Another reason to wear gloves is that engine oil is supposedly a carcinogen.

                                                                                                                                                                             

could,nt spell it,ha ha                                                                                                                                                                             

Don't do it this way if you run a dry sump bike such as an Aprilia as these need to be done differently.                                                                                                                                                                             

ghost my mate/boss has a Mille 1000 and he's just done an oil change but i'm not sure he's aware of it being any different, what's the score with Aprillas then. Funny enough he's changed the brake fluid twice since summer cos it keeps turning black and the lad that sold him it says that's the norm, true or not?

On dry sump engines both the tank and the sump need to be drained. the tank sould be refilled and then I turn the engine over with the plugs out (make sure that they are grounded) untill oil pressure has built up. recheck oil level it can drop quite a bit. replace plugs run engine for short while check for leaks check level again. on Aprilias the oil should be hot when checking the level. Some dry sumpers should check the level with the engine running (yamaha trx tdm). and yes the rear brake fluid does go black I don't think it likes the heat from exhaust

Cheers for that Yamahama, he hasn't ridden it since he's changed it so I'd best check he knows or that could be a nasty one!                                                                                                                                                                             

Great to keep on track with the thread,thanks guys, just a little info regarding the aprilla;-   Oil Level Check A common issue is overfilling the engine oil. Symptoms manifest when excess oil is sucked up by the crankcase breather tube and carried into the air box. To inspect for this problem open up the air box and remove the air filter. Probe down into the air box between the air intake bells with a long tool such as a screwdriver. Pooling of oil in this location is an indication of too much oil. From the air box, oil leaks down to the cylinders. Easily confused, the instrumentation features both a red oil pressure warning lamp () that illuminates when engine oil pressure is low; and, also a Oil Service Indicator () that appears on the odometer LCD when an oil change is due (factory set to a 13 hour operating interval). To properly check engine oil level: Engine should be warm. Ride the vehicle for 10 to 15 minutes to bring the oil to operating temperature. Idle the engine with the vehicle at rest and level for at least 30 seconds, then stop the engine just prior to checking the level. The oil reservoir drains after some time into the engine sump when the engine is stopped producing a false low reading. The bike should be on a level surface with both wheels on the ground. Do not check oil level when the bike is on a stand. Keep the vehicle vertical (off the side stand). The oil level tube is opposite the side stand and will indicate lower when the bike is on the stand. Oil level should be no higher than about 10-15mm above the MINIMUM LEVEL MARK. Do not fill any higher than this. To properly check gearbox oil level: Engine should be warm. Wait a few minutes for oil to drain from the gearbox to the clutch. Keep the vehicle vertical, with both wheels resting on the ground. Remove the rear brake lever by removing the fastening screw and washer. Remove the oil inspection plug just forward and above the right footpeg. Oil level is correct when it just reaches the inspection hole. Oil Change Oil Reservoir Drain the oil reservoir tank in addition to the engine sump. If you fail to do this, used oil will remain in the system and you will risk accidental overfill.                                                                                                                                                                             

as above lol.